Monday, February 16, 2009

This cheese stands alone

The remote and picturesque hamlets along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River, east of Quebec City, are steeped in the lore of early Canada but no story captures the imagination quite like the tale of Hercules of Charlevoix. Legend has it that Jean-Baptiste Grenon was so strong, he resisted being hanged by General Wolfe’s troops through sheer brute force. In frustration, they finally gave up and let him go, earning him a place in the history books and the nickname Hercules.

Grenon’s feat of daring and strength continues to be celebrated in a regional cheese named after him. Produced by the Labbé family in the quaint village of Baie-St-Paul using milk from a small herd of 30 Jersey cows, Hercule de Charlevoix is not strong in taste. Aged for 18 months, it has a mild, creamy but complex flavour, with hints of nut and lemon, and a silky texture. It is like a European mountain cheese in style and could easily hold its own to a Gruyère or Comté. This cheese stands up well to ham in a sandwich and matches well against mustard on crusty bread. It would pair nicely with pears and honey, too but to really evoke the spirit of Jean-Baptiste, I recommend eating this unique Canadian cheese alone.